:-). That can be done too, but I know of occasions when a breeze sprang up, and tumbled the whole greenhouse across the yard. The newer version, with a few changed parts, is Item 69893. Of course, anything is possible with enough time and determination, but I think it would take a lot of re-engineering (off the top of my head. Anyways, our much despised HOA caught a glimpse of it a couple months ago, and have issued a demand to have it lowered to 7'. Just make sure that the parts listed on the back pages of your manual are actually present in your box (sometimes HF ships kits that are missing a part, and that's not a happy discovery. I then tied the bolt to the 4 x 6 foundation with a 6" steel mending strap. Save even more with the harbor freight credit card. So, after fighting with one side for twenty minutes, we switched them around and they went together perfectly. let me know if u see any flaws in my potential method. That worked great and cost almost nothing.I did find that there are some changes in the basic plans for the greenhouse that are all probably improvements. At the time, I priced 4mm twinwall polycarbonate at a number of greenhouse supply companies. Of course a major problem will be how you shed rain/ice/snow off a flat roof.The walls of our HF greenhouse are 7'1" tall, because of how we built our foundation (steel foundation sitting up on top of a wooden base.) But the fragile HF structure really doesn't lend itself to this type of construction, even if you bought a new kit. Best of luck! It’s especially to make sure that all of the vertical parts are truly square and plumb (use a level) before you start bolting on any of the diagonal braces, since the diagonal braces start locking everything in place. We were planning to build the entrance at both ends of the booth for better access. I took one gander at the instruction booklet, and like they said in the movie Beetlejuice, "It reads like stereo instructions." I think it will last quite a few years and if I have to replace the panels I will do just the top with high quality sheets and something lesser on the sides if and when they need it. I bought the SS bolts locally because I did not want to wait for a delivery of more bolts from HF. Their current manual cites the same 90 day warranty. We dug out and graded the area in preparation for a foundation install, now waiting for it to stop raining so we can pump it out and get going on this project. I hope the thicker panels won't create too much of a problem. (Insert bad words here. It's now October 2011, and almost all my panels need replacing. So, I’m hoping you can loosen and/or remove some bolts, and possibly remove some diagonal braces, and try to find out which pieces have gotten out of square.Problems can also be caused by starting with a foundation that is not quite level. Sheri,Great to know that I don't need the new parts. Hooray. Thanks! Anyone listening?) I did find some mystery parts (82), metal plates that could go across the join and fit the holes in 12 and 13 perfectly. But now back to work (so much for being on a roll :-)I was mistaken about the measurements - this time I asked my wife to help meaure, the accurate dimensions (triple checked) are 9' 7/8' x 12' 3/4". From looking at the manual it appears that we could add one six foot side section to make it 18' long.I was curious if you thought this was a realistic option? With your good attention to detail, I'm not a bit worried about your ability to handle this project well. Hello 3Leeds,Your lack of answers from HF fits the experience of others, and fuels my suspicion that no UV protective coating has been applied to either side of the HF twinwall polycarbonate panels.The Harbor Freight greenhouse kits are manufactured and packed in China, and it's my belief the poly panels are also manufactured in China. Luckily we managed to get in on an early season sale. I have one photo in this blog of an installed clip, and that is in part Seven, Greenhouse Enhancements. Okay, thanks! Got the 6 ft ramp on sale at Harbor Freight (of course!). So, I bought a length of 3/8" clear pvc tubing and cut it to about 3/8" lengths. In-Store Only Add to My List. Did I screw up? bartco4,THis weekend I took a long look at my greenhouse wondering how it could be used for your purposes and what modifications would need to be made.First off I think you would get away with not using the steel 'C' channel frame for the base but what you would have to do is create a new base platform to attach the framing to. It had blown over the fence into the pasture by the yard. I'll order the other one if it seems like it will work. Steve www.stevesgreenhouses.com, Congratulations, Steve, and best of luck with your nice website!Sheri. As I describe above, it can be tricky to find bolts with the same sized/shaped head as those that come with the kit, which is why some folks have sought out help at Fastenal. The back wall connector for the studs particularly had us stumped- just doesnt look right doing it the way the manual says. Much of my GH is swathed in Aluminet now, but we have much more sun than you folks.Maybe someone else will chime in here with more experience in painting aluminum. Glad you got the clips ordered, but sorry to hear about the escaping panels. The center part of the clip presses down on top of the poly panel, while the two clip feet are caught in the aluminum track, to keep the clip center pressed down on the panel. This part of the blog mentions modifications for snow load: web4deb's snow load modificationsOther threads about snow load:Snow, how did you make out?HFGH 10x12, need roof studs (This one about a roof failure)Harbor Freight Aluminum Greenhouse, need advice for MichiganIn addition to roof support, some folks in snowy climates find that the sliding doors can freeze shut, especially in wet icy conditions. my plan is to use a sharpie to mark a line above and below on the main structure where the smaller pieces are and then removing the piece, marking a number on the removed piece and inside of the lines on the main structure. Those also show in the photos in Part Two, The Foundation.Also, we used some blue polyethylene sill insulation in between the pressure treated lumber and the metal base (shown in Part Two, The Foundation) and that very slight cushioning may have helped compensate a bit for any slight natural waviness of the wooden surface. If not, you are welcome to email me directly at mudhouse@q.com, and we'll try to put our heads together to figure out what's happened here.Sheri. The first year it was up we had an unusually hot summer.I gathered the panels yesterday, today I will do an inventory. My hub thinks I can't and he is usually right, but I thought I would check with you who might know! Quite the experience.When my greenhouse arrived it did not have a manual. Do those boards provide any support to the greenhouse above? So far, I think I am doing good .... right? It should cost you less to heat during the winter, if you do so. The longer I have my greenhouse the more I value using extra clips. Get 10% Off Your Entire Purchase When You Open a New Account. )I have heard of a few folks who didn't use the steel base, because they thought the steel might eventually rust. If I didn't, I know for a fact I wouldn't have a standing greenhouse today. We were hoping we could figure out a way to get rid of that section and add a horizontal brace at the bottom that wouldn't hinder the entrance much. I know they have rewritten the manual several times since I wrote this blog, but I was hoping things were getting better.I know it's been confusing to have two different HF model number versions of the 10x12 kit. Good luck with your build! My small Lemon tree will appreciate that. The panels might be able to slide into the T-slots without modification. (Good thing gardeners are generally stubborn, patient, determined types, eh?). By using the two green houses we were hoping to get rid of the back wall and use both doors. Does the door slide along the metal base? Your manual will either say Model 93358, or Model 69893. Hi Anetta, You can find all of the part numbers in the back of your manual. Unfortunately, my GH from the local store is the older version (like yours), Item Number 93358. But thankfully I Googled info on the greenhouse and came upon your blog. !I'm just getting the walls up and all is going well until I got to the place where parts 24 and 25 join together above the opening. I doubt our greenhouse would have survived long either, if I hadn't read many Harbor Freight greenhouse tips in the Gardenweb greenhouse forum. Even doing the roof, and I can't imagine anyone doing as the manual says building it on the ground and then putting it up. Maybe the following description will help, in addition to that photo.Of course, you’re standing outside the greenhouse, since the poly panels sit on the outside of your greenhouse frame. Item no. Construction-wise we did a few modifications to the existing plan, some per your suggestions and others based on our requirements. I've seen some posts about folks locating salvaged components (doors, windows,etc) and building their own greenhouse for a low price, so I know it can be done. The braces, parts 30, 31 did not have directional arrows. After nine months of procrastination it is time to erect. Door assembly parts 23-27There is an overhang on the left side where 26 and 27 slide in. Thanks! See more ideas about harbor freight greenhouse, greenhouse, greenhouse plans. We mounted it on a 12 x 14 foot wooden deck. Live and learn. The only problems so far are that the foundation bolts and the two brackets to join the rear wall studs were missing. )On occasion, some folks have had success going to their local HF store. I really hope you don't have a large plant collection you need to winter through in the greenhouse. We also installed a mosaic potting bench in ours, which surely was unnecessary work, but I love it.If you’ll need to cover much of your greenhouse exterior with shadecloth eventually, you may find that the frame color isn’t as large a design detail as it might seem now. Page 5: Assembly • It is always your responsibility to ensure that the greenhouse is properly anchored. You might also check to be sure that erecting a structure right on the property line won't make problems with local codes...but you've probably already run that down.I know some situations don't give you many options, but if you can give yourself a minimum of two feet of space to between the greenhouse and the fence...I sure would. This technique is called, Avoiding Unnecessary Math, but that may be a personal quirk of mine. We replaced those in October 2011. Then I drill 1/4 inch holes in the appropriate places using the bolt holes in post 7 and the slots in post 14 as guides.Everyone should plan on this remedy if your kit will not stay square when attaching braces 31.The remaining 6 ft. of aluminum angle iron was clamped over the inside of the door arch and drilled and bolted to the door arch to make it rigid.And as other people reported, I was short a dozen bolts. Since the greenhouse mostly just sits on top of the base and only really attaches with little clips, you could attach the bottom of the framing directly to the plywood. We are perlexed, but had a feeling this would happen with such simple construction. Thx. Your instructions are far better than the instructions that come with the kit. I hate worrying. It's April 9 and we just got 5 inches of snow in central WV so insulating the greenhouse is one of my main concerns. If you get it wrong, the holes will not line up with the stud. March we were 6inches ahead for the year.Well, at least I won't be bored. After we had the wooden 4x6 foundation square and level and anchored, we also added some short diagonal braces inside each corner, made from 4x4’s, just to make the wooden foundation less likely to move as the wood dried over time (the lumber we purchased was pretty wet.) I hope you enjoy many happy hours in your greenhouse! It's not common, but some folks do receive incomplete kits, and Harbor Freight is very slow (many months) to ship missing parts that they don't consider "stock items." In my manual (which might have changed slightly from yours) the best illustration is at the top of page 7, step 3 under Assembling the Outer Frame.If this doesn't resolve the problem (and with Harbor Freight manuals, you never know!) This is a bag of 130 clips for $15.99 plus $6.99 shipping. This week I assembled the 10X12 HFG that has been collecting dust in my garage for about 5 years. Thanks John Port Orchard, WA. I am very excited for this years garden! It seems it may actually be easier and cheaper to custom design and build one's own greenhouse.... Hello Peter, and thanks! The bolt has no purpose without a hole to bolt it through.And finally, the dreaded rear wall braces 31 simply could not be installed without pulling the side walls in 1/2 inch. I was able, with help using a pole to hold up the other end of the roof peak spanner as I attached one side, to attach the roof solo.But great job on this blog! I plan to do the same, this time; no more Harbor Freight roof panels for me, since they've just proven to be a quick cheap fix for a few years...in my climate.If you decide to call HF for the clips, I'd suggest using the same procedure. It’s a little hard to find regular bolts that will fit in the channel as well as these, if you lose or damage them. The diagrams are also good. But, again, I want to thank you for your patience, insight, and dedication in putting this information together for all those of us who so desperately need interpretation from the "Place tab A into slot B" type instructions. The distance center to center between the holes is 1 3/16".I haven't graphed this out on paper, but we think it's very close.If it's not easy for you to fabricate these, you could try calling HF to see if this is a part they stock for immediate shipment. Hello Dave. )I got through to 1-800-444-3353 Harbor Freight. I still can't figure out how to install the clips. Hi Jim,No, I didn't abrade the surface of the new panels at all, and I didn't have any problems with the TS-100 product adhering directly to the surface of the panels. She's sending me a copy of the new manual, because her version is even newer than the PDF file version that Harbor Freight has on their website.I should have the new manual (the one you have) any day now. No worry about the late response. Can I install the panels from the inside? An even bigger problem is the steel C-shaped base that the aluminum frame sits on. No issues at all. We uninstalled the window frames to do this caulk repair, but I made one goof...I did not make a note of the order the windows were installed. I like the flexibility of being able to remove others...by removing screws and clips...but the window panels represent a special problem, when they are loose in the frame.Sorry you have the same problem I did. Thanks - M. C. Ackerson, Albuquerque, Hello Mark, sorry to hear about the missing part 48s. After a lot of standing and starring, I noticed that the frame work of the HFGH is made with a perfect solution in its design. The doors hang on the wheels at the top and float in a groove in the bases.One frustration was that a bunch of parts in my manual were not in the kit and I had a few parts that were not listed in the parts list. So I laughed. Thanks for posting! We agree we'd be more comfortable trying to scratch build a greenhouse now that we've owned this one for a few years. I'm thinking you could do this with a plywood foundation the same overall size of the 'C' channel base. Personally I wouldn't do anything to rough up the Harbor Freight panels, since (for me) they have already proven to be pretty questionable in their durability, over time. )And, photos before or during the dis-assembly process are a great idea. Also, you're welcome to email me at mudhouse@q.com, and we'll be happy to do our best to help.Sheri, Back again, and I’m sorry for the delay. We have a bit over four feet between our house and the greenhouse, but that was partly because our house has a deep roof overhang, and we didn't want the house roof to contact the greenhouse roof. At this point, all of my original six year old Harbor Freight wall panels (except those on the sheltered north side) are in bad need of replacement. On page 7 it states the diagnonal to be 15' 5" . I think I will go with the route you stated with basically full tear down but leaving sub assemblies intact(sliding door and tilt up roof panels. !I've now got the water and electricity in and as soon as my wife decides on how she wants the benches I'll finish it all up.Bill in the Valley, That's impressive wind you have there Bill, I'm really glad you found info about reinforcements. The panels I did sporadically as I prepared them with tape on the ends. If it's any consolation, you'll find the twinwall polycarbonate in your HF kit (even though it's a fairly low quality 4mm twinwall poly) will hold in heat better than glass. Use the two holes near the center of the right door rail (Part 27) to join the front ceiling plates (24 and 25.) I posted a few pictures from my effort herehttp://web.mac.com/tandgleeds/wormbucket/Greehouse.htmlThe time frame building my greenhouse was one weekend to make the base. The poly clips snap on the 3/8 rounded part of the aluminum frame work. I finally got around to ordering my roof panels, after being on hold for 20 min. If you have the same problem with the exchanged kit, I hope you will post back.Sheri, First, thank you for taking the time to do this! I just bought mine and felt overwhelmed until i read your blog, shame it's not in book form and included with the greenhouses. )I gave the operator the SKU number for the bag of clips (29457), and she could not find them. Getting replacement framework parts from Harbor Freight is generally an exercise in frustration.Anything is possible with time, determination, and money, but we wonder if the work involved in re-engineering the greenhouse into a display booth would be worth the final return in increased sales. However when I tried screwing a corner post in place, the floor plate tips forward and comes off. Hello Natalie; I'm not familiar with this problem. Great, I'm missing both rear post connectors #48 - the two bottom holes attach to post #14. 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